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See what it would look like before you commit, then work out what it takes. Upload a photo of your own wall, drive or house and try things on it.

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Invoices, quotes, receipts and the rest of the paperwork, generated properly. No account, no watermark, and Download is the only button.

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Merge, split, crop, sign, number and compress. Everything runs in your browser, so the contract you open here never reaches a server.

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Practice tests for the cards and licences that decide whether you can work. Every answer cites the guidance it came from, not a forum.

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Paint a room

Free. No account, no email, nothing uploaded.

Drop a photo, or choose one or click to browse, or paste from the clipboard
Nothing is uploaded. The photo is opened in this browser and never leaves it.
Floor level, along the skirting. A standard UK internal door is 762mm wide if the tape will not reach.
Finish
A fine through-coloured render. Flat from a distance, lightly textured close up. Colour
Ease it back and the texture of the real surface reads through, which usually looks more like the finished thing than a flat fill does.
Render photo needed

Drop a photo in and drag the four corners onto the real edges.

An impression, not a render. Get a sample before committing. Nothing uploaded.

Worth knowing

  • THE SCALE IS THE WHOLE THING. Block paving drawn at the wrong size is what makes a visualiser look fake, and it is not cosmetic: if you are choosing between 200mm blocks and 400mm flags, the scale is the decision. One measured dimension fixes every other number on the picture.
  • A drive is a trapezium in a photograph, not a rectangle, because the far end is further away. Drag the corners onto the real edges rather than settling for a box, or the fill reads as a rug lying on the drive. Take the photo square on and from standing height and it will need less correcting.
  • This is an impression, not a render. It cannot know your light, your existing kerb line or how a colour behaves against your brick on a grey afternoon. Get a sample of anything you are close to committing to and look at it outdoors, at your house, at more than one time of day.

Worked out on this device, by this page. Nothing you typed was sent anywhere or stored, and closing the tab loses it.

Next in the same job

Paint calculator
Litres and tins for walls, ceiling and woodwork, coats included.
Render colours
Render or stucco on your own house, before the scaffold goes up. No brand codes.
Front door styles
Panel arrangement, colour and ironmongery against a photo of your own house.
How to paint a room
Preparation, the order to work in, and the reason a wall ends up with a visible frame round it.

A screen cannot show you a wall

Your screen emits light. A wall reflects it. Those are physically different things, so no visualiser anywhere, this one included, can promise you the colour you are going to get.

On top of that, a colour changes through the day. Morning light is cooler, afternoon light is warmer, and a lamp at night changes it again. A north-facing wall and a south-facing wall in the same room, in the same paint, are not the same colour to look at.

What it is good for is ruling things out fast. It will tell you that the deep teal is too much for that room, or that two of your three shortlisted neutrals are indistinguishable and you can stop agonising. That is a real job and it saves a lot of tester pots.

How to test properly once you have narrowed it down

Test on at least two walls, because of the direction thing above. Judging a colour on one wall and rolling it onto four is how people end up repainting.

Paint a decent sized patch, not a smear. A small patch reads as darker than it will be once it covers a whole wall, and a patch surrounded by an existing colour is being judged against that colour rather than on its own.

Better still, paint the patch on a sheet of lining paper and move it around the room. That lets you see it against the woodwork, next to the window, and in the corner that never gets any light, which is usually the one that decides it.

The finish changes the colour

This catches people who have carefully tested a colour in the wrong sheen. The same colour in matt, eggshell and gloss reads as three slightly different colours, because the sheen changes how much light bounces straight back at you rather than scattering.

Matt looks deeper and flatter. Gloss looks lighter and busier, and it shows every imperfection in the wall behind it. Test in the finish you will be using, on the surface you will be using it on.

Why there are no brand codes here

These colours have plain descriptive names rather than references from one of the big paint or colour systems, and that is a deliberate choice.

Accurate values for those systems are a product their owners sell. The free charts of them circulating online are approximations of unknown provenance which disagree with each other. A swatch labelled with a code that is visibly wrong is worse than no code at all, because somebody orders paint off it.

When you get to ordering, the merchant's own fan deck under the light in your own room is the reference. Nothing on a screen is.

What to do with the area figure

Once the corners are on the real wall, the tool gives you the area of it. That is the number the paint calculator wants, so carry it across instead of measuring the room twice.

Two things to remember when you get there. Paint coverage on the tin assumes a sealed, even surface, and fresh plaster or a strong colour change will take more. And the openings matter: a room with a door and a window has meaningfully less wall than its dimensions suggest, which the room area tool works out properly.

The photo stays here

It is opened in your browser and never uploaded. No account, nothing stored, nothing sent anywhere. That is true across this site, and it bears saying on a tool where the first instinct is to wonder what happens to a photograph of the inside of your house.

Common questions

Will the colour look like this on my wall?

Not exactly, and no screen visualiser can promise otherwise. Your screen emits light and a wall reflects it, so they are physically different things. Worse, a colour changes with the light in the room through the day and with what is next to it. Use this to rule colours out quickly, then get tester pots.

Why do I have to measure the wall?

To place the fill on the real wall rather than on a rough rectangle, and so the corners land where the wall actually is. It also gives you the wall area, which is what you need for the paint calculator once you have picked a colour.

Where should I put a tester patch?

On at least two walls, because the same colour looks different depending on which way each wall faces. Paint a decent sized patch rather than a smear, and if you can, paint it on lining paper and move it around the room rather than putting four patches on one wall and judging them against each other.

Why are there no brand colour names or codes?

Because accurate values for the branded systems are a product their owners sell, and every free chart of them online is an approximation of unknown provenance. A swatch labelled with a code that is visibly wrong is worse than no code, because people order paint off it. These are our own named colours.

Does the finish change the colour?

Noticeably. The same colour in matt, eggshell and gloss reads as three slightly different colours, because the sheen changes how much light bounces straight back at you. Matt looks deeper and flatter, gloss looks lighter and busier. Test in the finish you will be using.

Is the photo uploaded anywhere?

No, and it never leaves the device. That matters here because the photographs people try are of the inside of their own home, usually with the contents of the room and sometimes the family in them, which is not something to hand over to find out whether a colour works. The picture is opened, recoloured and saved by your own browser, so there is no upload wait, no queue and no size limit beyond what your machine can hold.